Buying Rims Guide
Rims are joined by either welding, pinning, or sleeving. A welded joint creates an inflexible weak point that compromises the consistency of a rim. The heat of welding also compromises the material strength at that point. SPANK Industries rims are sleeved. This allows for an agreeable amount of flex at the join - a good thing! A sleeved joint also offers the highest strength-to-weight ratio. A SPANK Industries sleeved rim joint is covered with a thin-layered water decal. This is only aesthetic. It is normal, and no problem if that decal breaks during riding. It is merely an indication that the sleeve is performing the function it was designed for - allowing for flex. SPOON rims are pinned, not sleeved.
buying rims guide
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SPANK Industries Rims are shotpeen finished. This process of 'hammering' the surface instead of sandblasting, means that no material is removed, and therefore the integral strength of the alloy is optimized. After shotpeen, the rims are then anodized black, or colour. SPANK logos on rims are either lasered or sublimated decals (a very thin decal which is baked into the rims - meaning no peeling.)
SPANK Industries rims consistently get voted into the top 3 'most wanted' MTB rims by reader polls from the industry leading MTB publications, as well as having received several Design & Innovation and other industry design awards.
All SPANK Industries Rims come with a protective rim strip that must be removed prior to wheel building. This is NOT a tubeless tape. All SPANK Rims are tubeless compatible except SPOON 32 & SPOON 28 which are pinned rims, without BeadBite, and are therefore not recommended for tubeless use.View the HOW TO video at this link for a detailed guide on setting your SPANK Rims up for tubeless.
The rims are made using a method developed by DT Swiss "to ensure continuous carbon fibres are aligned with the forces passing through the wheel, increasing strength and stiffness in use without adding weight".
The regular PRC 1100 Dicut DB saves (a bit) on cost by using the 240 hub with ratchet freewheel rather than the Mon Chasseral's super-light 180 hub. With a few other tweaks to beef it up a touch, that brings the weight for a pair up to 1,435g, which is still a long way from shabby for disc-brake wheels with 35mm rims.
The PR 1400 Dicut 21 comes with alloy rims (but without the OXiC coating), straight-pull spokes and DT Swiss's 240-based hubs, including the excellent Ratchet System 36 SL in the freehub. The claimed weight of the wheelset is just 1,470g.
The PR 1600 Spline 23s use aluminium rims and DT Swiss's 350 hub internals which are a little heavier than the 240s used for the more expensive wheels in the range. The freehub system is DT Swiss's Ratchet System 18, meaning that 18 teeth in each of the Star Ratchets lock together when you pedal. You'll engage (begin to drive the rear wheel) in 20 when you start pedalling, whereas you'll engage in 10 with a higher end Ratchet System 36 SL.
Reviewer Dave Arthur said, "The ERC 1100s are among the most stable and predictable deep-section carbon wheels I have yet tested. I rode the wheels in some very windy conditions and as a relatively lighter rider, I do feel the buffeting effect of deep section wheels more than some, but that wasn't the case with these wheels. Instead, they exhibited a calm stability normally only associated with much shallower profile rims."
The ER 1600 Dicut 31 uses aluminium rims and 350-based hubs that are slightly heavier than those used higher up the range. The freewheel features DT Swiss's Ratchet System 18 which doesn't engage as fast as the Ratchet System 36 SL (it drives the rear wheel in 20 following coasting, as opposed to 10), but it's equally durable.
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The rims on your bike play a big part in determining your wheel durability, the overall rotating weight of the wheel, and how the bike reacts under braking. Generally rims come in shallow section (less than 25mm in depth), mid section (40mm in depth or less) and deep section (anything deeper than 40mm).
Like traditional skateboard wheels, longboard wheels are also measured by diameter and durometer. Shape also plays a role when buying longboard wheels. Wheels with rounded edges facilitate easy sliding, freeriding, and cruising. However, they can be problematic when downhill racing, as the edges won't grip the pavement as hard during turns. Straight-edged wheels give you more grip and control at high speeds.
Better materials: Ultralight, ultrastrong carbon-fiber rims can offer a leap in performance and sticker price compared to most alloy rims. Compared to alloys, carbon can be formed into a wider range of shapes while also offering superior strength and stiffness. This lets wheel designers create lighter, stronger or more aerodynamic wheels with the same or lower weight than they can achieve with alloys. Be aware, though, that carbon wheels with rim brakes can be slicker in the rain and run much hotter on long downhill sections than rim-brake alloy wheels.
Want to find out which alloy wheels fit on your car? There are a couple of ways to search for alloys, so you can quickly find compatible makes and models that will fit your car. Below, we take a look at the different options when buying a set of alloy wheels.
Most entry to intermediate level wheels will feature aluminium rims of varying quality, while high-level wheels will typically feature rims made of carbon fibre which reduces the weight while increasing stiffness.
As the name suggests, tubeless tires require no inner tube, instead relying on tight tolerances and air pressure to create an airtight seal. It's a technology very similar to that found in modern cars and motorbikes. Tubeless tires have long been used in mountain biking and its safe to assume that most complete mountain bikes are shipped with tubeless ready wheels and tires fitted. If looking to upgrade your wheels, we strongly recommended seeking wheels with tubeless, or tubeless-ready rims, which will allow you to take advantage of lower tire pressures, lower weights and lower rolling resistance. The lower tire pressure will provide more control, traction, and comfort, while the lack of tube means punctures will rarely be of concern.
The trend is for modern rims to be wider, resulting in improved comfort through greater tire air volume. This coincides with the shift to larger tires that are said to improve roll-over ability, traction and control by being able to run at a lower pressure.
Rim width can either be measured internally or externally, which potentially provides some confusing numbers. Traditionally, 17mm was a popular internal width for mountain bike wheelsets, however, more recent times have seen a shift to wider rims thanks to the increases offered to tire stability, footprint and air volume. By current standards, a narrow rim when measured internally is anything under 19mm, a standard modern internal rim width is typically between 21-25mm, while a wide rim is considered anything greater than 28mm.
Conversely, hand built wheels are unique, featuring individual hubs, spokes, nipples and rims that are made to order. Hand built wheels are custom creations to suit a riders exact preferences and needs. There are some off-the-shelf wheelsets that fall under the hand-built designation, for example, wheels from carbon-specialist Enve feature commonly sourced steel spokes, and a choice of hub prior to being built. A professional wheel builder would be able to replicate this same wheel by buying the individual parts from their respective sources.
Inspect the rim: It's worth routinely inspecting your rims for chips, scrapes, and dents (most common). Being vigilant and ensuring your rims are in primo condition before hitting the trail can often mean the difference between reducing the likelihood of you succumbing to rim failure out on the trail.
We hope this guide has been helpful and provided some valuable information. You can browse BikeExchange for mountain bike wheels or search for your local bike shop to get further assistance. Also, check out our ultimate guide to buying a mountain bike for an even more detailed breakdown of what you should be looking for when buying a new bike.
Purchasing a pottery wheel is a major stride that can be fairly intimidating. There are various factors you have to consider before settling on the choice of buying your first pottery wheel. Here are a few components to remember.
Anticipate that pottery wheels will cost between a few hundred dollars or well into the thousands of dollars range, depending on the attachments and models you prefer. On the off chance that you are simply considering whether clay is for you, it is suggested that you take a pottery class to find if your level, and love of the art, is sufficiently high to legitimize buying your own pottery wheel.
There are wheels that have bat pins that are effortlessly removed, enabling the potter to trim the ware specifically on the wheel-head. However, the majority of flat wheel-heads do accompany bat pins, but the pin configurations can be unique: Pins can differ in number, size and distance from the middle of the wheel-head. In the event that you have bats that you need to keep using, you'll need a wheel-head that corresponds with the correct pin layout. Check out our guide on Pottery Bats.
These days, most new vehicles are sold with large alloy wheels. These rims have a big diameter which means they require big (and often expensive) tires. If you decide to purchase a second set of rims for winter, you can go for smaller wheels that'll fit with smaller tires, which are generally cheaper. You can also choose steel wheels, a cheap alternative, which is quite popular during winter in Eastern Canada. 041b061a72